A masterpiece painted on cheap paper is like a gourmet meal served on a paper plate: it won’t hold up. Here’s how to choose surfaces that protect your work for decades.

Canvas: Linen, Cotton, or Synthetic?

• Linen: The Ferrari of canvases – strong, archival, and pricey. Ideal for oils/acrylics. I would use this if being commissioned for a special piece.
• Cotton: Budget-friendly (8oz-12oz weights). Heavier means less sagging over time. I tend to use cotton but go for quality makers rather than cheaper brands, where the frames might warp or the canvas split. I always get canvases professionally made for commission pieces.
• Synthetics: New blends are promising but avoid them for heirloom pieces. Personally, I would stay away from these. Longevity is an issue I wouldn’t want to play around with.

Priming Tip: Always coat canvases with gesso (2+ layers) to prevent paint absorption and acid damage – see my earlier blog (No.7) on preparing your canvas.

Paper: Skip the Cellulose

Newsprint and cheap watercolour paper are acidic and will self-destruct. For longevity:

• Watercolour: 100% cotton, acid-free (e.g., Arches, Saunders etc).
• Mixed Media: Look for “archival” labels and heavy weight (300gsm+).

Board: Seal It or Regret It

Even “artist-grade” boards can degrade. For best results:

1. Use birch plywood (the least acidic).
2. Seal pressed boards with acrylic medium or resin.
3. For oils, stretch canvas over sealed board for extra stability.

Pro Warning: Sunlight and humidity are like kryptonite to art. Display your work away from windows and damp spaces.

NB I do not get paid to endorse any people or brands mentioned in my blogs.

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